Back in Amman, and work as usual. Today I had my English class again, but a little more drama than normal because the normal library admin person was out. First they gave me a group of 20 kids from 4 to 16 (and varying levels of English), and a corner of the (noisy) main library [...]

Around Amman

People have lived in Amman for at least a few millennia: it was known to the Romans as Philadelphea, a city with sufficient clout even then that it minted its own coins; archaelogical evidence suggests that the was a developed society here as early as 8500 BC. Originally covering seven hills, or “Jabals”; the city [...]

Day 6

If Amman was designed by town planners, they must have intended to build a maze: Amman is a mish-mash of buildings (homes, shops, and restaurants alike) broken up only by narrow alleys and roads blanketing the steep-sided hills on either side of the valley floor the downtown area and main roads occupy. Yes, I admit, [...]

Light in the darkness

Spot the only bright paint in the neighbourhood! It really is a like a ray in light in the darkness (or even nothingness).
Jabal Nathif, is a neglected area of east Amman with a population of around 100,000. It didn’t have a police station, post office, or any form of health centre until Ruwwad began lobbying, [...]

Starting at work

This morning started off calm – I was selling bags made (from old newspaper) by some of the elderly people Ruwwad works with. I think I was drafted in because it was at an “organic market” aimed at British and other European expats, and I could do a better job convincing them that they really [...]

Little Children

The children were still playing when I returned from the town centre. Conversation was a little stilted, but it was a good chance to practice my “do you have any brothers or sisters” (useful conservational Arabic 101, naturally) before the fun starts tomorrow. Their father took one look at me out of the window [...]

Taking to the Streets

Friday was my main day off (I start my placement proper on Saturday), so I took headed down the hill to get a closer look at downtown Amman. Just up the road from me is the British Council office for Jordan: definitely a welcome flag to see. When a soldier with a large rifle prevented [...]

Arabian (sleepless) Nights

Now I’ll be the first to admit that the time difference between Amman and Chapel Hill hasn’t made it easier sleep at night or stay awake during the day. But the booming exhortations to prayer ten minutes before 4 am this morning certainly didn’t help. It is Friday (think Sunday, but for Muslims), which meant [...]

Books@Cafe

So Book@Cafe is a quirky establishment even in cosmopolitan Amman, with free wi-fi, as well as the potential to bump into a whole host of foreigners: tonight, I heard German and French (as well as English and Arabic). The first floor is an English bookshop, the second a bar and restaurant, serving import beer and [...]

Hello Jordan

I’m got a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore… or Chapel Hill… or London. Amman is certainly different, from the incomprehensible visa staff with sullen expressions and shiny pistols to the dirt tracks and top-range Range Rovers. I’m gradually settling into my apartment, which is definitely still a work-in-progress, and frequenting “books@cafe”, a bar/cafe/bookshop with [...]